Forgot to add the Graphics Card in the last post. One of the biggest parts of this workstation is the particular graphics card I’ll be using. Since my new rig is a hybrid (mix of traditional rendering and real-time render) the GPU is central to creating an effective workflow. I’ll be using the graphics card that comes with the Mach Studio Pro software which is an ATI FirePro v8750 workstation card. Normally, I’d be looking at a games oriented card like the ATI Radeon 5970 or the 5870, but Mach Studio Pro comes with the v8750 card and works at it’s absolute best with that card, so I’ll use it in this workstation. I’ll also be writing a review for the MSP software in January for Renderosity.com. My sincere thanks to StudioGPU (a great, hard-working company) and Ted Henning for providing the software and the graphics card for review.

The main difference between a workstation card and a standard GPU (except for the large price disparity) is in the drivers. The FirePro cards have drivers that are specifically designed for CG work and in this case the real-time rendering software Mach Studio Pro. While not quite as efficient as a gamer’s GPU, the FirePro card still works very well and should be able to handle all of my game related work at the higher end. I’ll be doing some testing in this area and will be publishing my results.

Graphics Card: ATI FirePro v8750

ATI FirePro v8750 Graphics Card

Assembling the Parts

The actual assembly of your computer is a slow and careful process, but not nearly as difficult as it seems. Many excellent youtube videos show a very detailed process (along with lots of good sites like this one), so I’m not going to go into specifics of how to put a new computer. But I will cover the overall steps you need to take and any problems I might encounter along the way. One good thing to have (in addition to basic tools) is another computer or laptop that has internet access. Being able to look something up on the net has saved my butt many times.

I began to build my own computers because I was ripped off by a bad computer dealer who sold me cheap parts and then vanished when I started to have problems. So, I tore the shit computer apart and researched every single component and discovered that I could buy the parts for a quarter of price I paid. Determined to build my own system, I picked up a copy of Upgrading and Repairing PC’s by Scott Meuller, which not only covered the process of building a new system in detail, but covered all of the technology as well. Highly recommended for new system builders (comes with DVD as well)

Basic toolset for computer build

The basic tools you’ll need for a new computer build are mostly common sense items like philips-head screwdriver, tweezers, a clean cloth, etc. Two items might be new to a beginner: the anti-static wristband (to keep static electricity from damaging the computer circuits) and small tubes/cups to hold the variety of screws you’ll be using for the build. I also add a small flashlight which, because of my failing eyesight, comes in handy all the time as you work in dark corners of your case.  A clear area to work in free of distractions and plenty of light are also things you’ll need for the build

I can’t stress enough how important it is to read the motherboard manual before you begin to assemble the computer. Asus makes an excellent manual which goes over how to install the CPU and all the other parts on to the motherboard. Reading the manual in detail will keep you from making mistakes which could ruin your computer, so take the time to read the manual thoroughly before you begin.

Intel i7 920 CPU

The basic elements of a computer a fairly simple; a cpu, a motherboard, ram memory, a pc case, power unit and cd rom are all you need to start with. Once these items are assembled correctly, you’ll be able to load the operating system of your choice (in my case, Windows 7 64-bit).

The CPU I have chosen is an Intel i7 920 quad core. This cpu has a lot of head room and can easily be overclocked. It is also well documented and widely used by gamers and CG artists alike. Great care must be taken in handling the CPU, installing it on to the motherboard and in adding thermal grease to the cpu which will help the heat conductivity between the CPU and the heatsink.

The Asus p6T Deluxe motherboard makes it very easy to install the CPU. I usually remove the mobo and stand it on top of the box with the anti-static bag underneath in order to install the CPU with lots of room to negotiate. A simple lever releases the main device that secures the CPU into place. You then very carefully align the CPU so that it fits the socket and slowly lower it into place. Once done you re-secure the lever and proceed to adding thermal grease.

cpu interface on motherboard open and ready to install

Much discussion on the net about which is the best way to add thermal grease, most opt for a small line of grease at roughly the center of the CPU, but I like to spread the grease around using the finger of a plastic glove (cleaned with alcohol first). The point of using thermal grease is to make sure it spreads evenly across the face of the CPU, this method allows you to do this. Important to make sure your gloved finger is clean and that the face of the CPU is clean as well.

Once this is done, I prepare the heatsink. I’m not using the provided stock Intel heatsink, but a custom one which cools better and makes overclocking much easier (overclocking makes your CPU run much hotter). I chose the Prolima Megahalems which are supposed to be easy to install.

Not.

Why do heat sink manufacturers make such awful manuals? The Prolima manual, while correct, is useless as it doesn’t show direction and it lacks detail. It took me a good hour just to make sure I knew what I was doing. This is why you need the net to do research if you are stuck. Prolima actually has a much better guide on their website which I wish I would have sought out sooner.

The problem came in figuring out how the the back-plate fits on to the rear of the motherboard. Since the heatsink is so large, you have to have a strong back-plate to keep the unit securely fastened to the motherboard. I couldn’t figure out which side of the back-plate fit on to the back of the Asus board. Finally, after finding a picture on the Prolima site, I was able to figure out the orientation and it installed fine. Still, most back-plates have a small adhesive pad which sticks to the back of the motherboard and holds it in place. The Prolima unit does not, or rather it does but apparently it’s only used for another type of CPU which was not the one I was using.

Scratch head several times.

Finally, after assembling the backplate and supporting clips separately, I understood how it worked (along with watching a few youtube vids) and got it attached to the motherboard pretty quickly. Another problem cropped up when I realized I hadn’t spread out the clamps which hold down the heatsink enough and had to re-install them again. But this was a minor problem.

Interestingly, this heat-sink requires that you add thermal grease to the metal head that sits on the CPU. Usually, you only put grease on the CPU. So, I used the finger in glove method again and added only the slightest cover of grease to the head. Once this was done it was a simple matter to install the heatsink and screw it down tight to the CPU and motherboard.

Attaching heatsink to CPU

Another problem came up when I realized I hadn’t decided which fan orientation I wanted for the heatsink. You see, I’ll be adding a fan or two to the body of the heatsink to make it work more efficiently. I chose an upward orientation with the logic being that the fan will “push” air across the blades of the heatsink and into the fan on top of the case which is “pulling” hot air out of the case. Setting up the fan orientation requires you to change the direction of the heatsink fins, so it’s an important decision.

After the entire heatsink was installed, I added the 3 sticks of RAM to the board making sure to place them in the correct RAM slots (read the motherboard manual). You do this because it’s much easier to do it outside of the case. Now it’s time to place the motherboard into the case.

Motherboard, CPU, heatsink and RAM all installed.

With the PC case on it’s back, the first thing you do is to install metal stand-0ff’s (eight of them) provided by the PC case manufacturer (Coolermaster HAF 932). This is done so that the motherboard sits up a bit from the metal backing of the case. If it sat on the metal it would short out. Once done, the faceplate for the side of the motherboard should be installed. I had a hard time figuring out how to do this as the faceplate provided by Coolermaster seemed much too small for the opening in the case. Another half hour spent checking the net and reading the HAF 932 manual (fairly well-written except on this part). Eventually, I realized that the faceplate needed to be installed on the “inside” of the case and not the outside. It snapped right in perfectly and slapped my forehead (‘doh!).

Placing the motherboard in the case is a little tricky as you don’t want to force anything or bend any of the clips on the faceplate, but with a little finesse it went in fine. Some corners of the board are hard to see and here’s where the little flashlight comes in handy. I try to be very, very careful with my screwdriver so as not to slip and damage any of the traces on the motherboard (bad, bad, bad).

using flashlight to screw in the mobo

Next up: Attaching the power, case headers and organizing the cables.